Liquid sunshine: sprayable facial emulsion

I wanted to share this recipe a long time ago but didn't find the opportunity.

This is a very light emulsion with a low viscosity, suitable for a spray pump. This brilliant colour comes from  buriti oil and carrot root extract in organic jojoba oil. The procedure is quite simple. I've  Sucrose stearate in a hot-hot cold process meaning I have heated a part of the water phase and the oil phase and then added the rest of the water phase @RT.

As always before we start I want to recommend you to read our older posts: hygienic manufacturing practice in cosmetic lab and introduction to Basic equipments and utensils for a cosmetic lab.

Ingredients:

Phase A:

Deionized water  30.0%

Sucrose stearate  2.0%

Panthenol  0.5%

Dermofeel PA-3  0.1%

Phase B:

Carrot root extract in organic jojoba oil  10.0%

buriti oil  5.0%

Olive squalane  1.0%

Dermosoft® GMCY 0.3%

Rosemary CO2 Extract    0.1%

antimicrobial plant extract  0.1%

Tocopherol  0.5%

Phase C:

Hamamelis hydrosol  to 100.0%

 Vegeluron  3.0%

Sodium lactate  2.0%

Jiaogulan hydroglyceric extract  2.0%

Licorice hydroglyceric extract   2.0%

Na-PCA    1.0%

Phase D:

Passionfruit oil  3.0%

Xanthan gum 0.2%

Acacia gum   0.1%

Phase E:

Organic Mandarine essential oil  0.5%

Organic Cedarwood essential oil  0.1%

Organic patchouli oil  0.1%

Phase F:

Dermosoft 1388 eco  2.5%

Euxyl® K903   0.5%

Lactic acid 80%  to adjust the pH

Procedure:

1- Blend phase A at room temperature. Sucrose stearate is not water soluble but on standing it will completely swell in water.

2- After sucrose stearate is completely swelled to a homogeneous blend heat phase A and B separately in a water bath @65 ^oC. There is nothing to be melted and you need to heat the phases just for a short while.

3- After both phased have reached the same temperature slowly add phase B to phase A under stirring. Stop heating and take the beaker out of the water bath.

4- Blend phase C at RT and add it slowly and in small aliquots to the A+B blend

5- Homogenize for a few minutes (with Kai Blenia for example).

6- Blend the gums in passion fruit oil and add this under stirring to the emulsion. You can homogenize once more for about one minute

7- Continue stirring as the emulsion cools down.

8- As the temperature reaches around 35^oC add the essentail oils and then the preservatives. Adjust the pH between 5.0-5.5 (we had to add a few drops of lactic acid). Continue stirring until the emulsion reaches the room temperature (meaning 20-22 ^oC even if your lab has a temperature of a sauna bath )

9- Take your mikrokit sample and fill the emulsion in a spray bottle.

10- Enjoy the skin feel and don't forget to share your success with us.

Feel free to send me your questions, comments and photos. Post your photos to me or on our Facebook page. We all enjoy your participation in our Facebook discussions.

Be Happy and have fun