Donnerstag, 12. Dezember 2019
How to tame shea butter
As lovely as shea butter is, it is a nightmare to many formulators. I recently uploaded a photo of a nice and smooth balm that I have prepared for a formulation challenge and since you've asked for the formulation and procedure I'm sharing them here.
This is a KISS formulation, quite simple and basic. The key to making smooth balms and butters is not in the formulation but in the procedure and in this tutorial and video I'm sharing my secret with you. Actually I shared a hugely popular post a few years ago but since I know that the smartphone generation doesn't have the patience to search and dig-out old posts, I'm sharing my secret in a new formulation.
Formulation:
| Phase A | |
| Shea butter | 40,0% |
| Coconut oil | 20,0% |
| Phase B | |
| Sweet almond oil | 31,3% |
| Olive squalane | 5,0% |
| Tocopherol | 0,5% |
| Liquid vitamin C | 0,5% |
| Coconut CO2 extract | 1,0% |
| Petitgrain oil | 0,7% |
| Lavender | 0,3% |
| alpha-bisabolol | 0,2% |
| Phase C | |
| Allantoin | 0,5% |
Procedure:
1- Blend phase A and B in separate beakers. Coconut CO2 has a melting point slightly above the room temperature. It is not quite liquid in winter but I didn't want to add it to the hot phase. It takes a while but it melts in the liquid oil phase. If you're working in a very cold lab and your coconut extract is rock solid, add it to the melted oil phase after you remove it from the water bath.
2- When all of phase A is melted remove it from that bath and gently stir till the temperature is reduced to aroun 45 oC.
3- Now add phase B and blend completely. Start cooling but don't leave the blend to its destiny. You need to stir this mixture as it cools down. You can
a) put the container in the fridge and stir it every 10-15 minutes until it reaches a light trace
b) put the beaker in an ice bath and stir the content till it reaches a light trace.
4- As you reach a light trace use a sieve and disperse the allantoin in the blend.
5- Continue cooling and stirring till you reach a heavy trace
6- At this point, you can either pour the balm in your containers or you can start whipping. You may need to whip the balm in a few steps with cooling in the fridge in between.
7- Continue whipping and cooling until you reach the desired consistency.
8- Fill in suitable containers.
Enjoy the silky skin feel and the divine scent.
Watch this video for a visual tutorial (and to watch my out-of-the-tact dance)
BeHappy and have fun
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