It's time to get ready for cold and dry weather and provide the skin with more fat from natural plant oils and butters.
Mittwoch, 3. September 2014
Mango butter tutorial
I'm working on butters with a cream-like texture since a couple of months and have prepared some amazing butters with a very smooth and silky texture. You would be probably surprised that I've thoroughly put cocoa butter aside and prepare my butters without it.
The most important factor to get a smooth texture by this formulations is cooling and stirring. You can pour the butter in individual jars and stir it as it's cooling down, as the butter starts to solidify you can put the jars in the fridge and then let it solidify without any stirring, you can even let the butter solidify at room temperature but it takes longer for the butter to solidify, this procedure is practical for small batches. If you prepare 100 jars per batch it wouldn't be a good solution. In that case, you can stir the butter in the original container as it cools down and starts to solidify and then can pour the butter into jars and either accelerate cooling by putting the jars into the fridge or let them solidify in a prolonged process at room temperature.
In this tutorial, we suppose you have a basic knowledge about melting butters and mixing ingredients. We focus on the recipe and have no photos for you. Keep in mind: Never heat the ingredients directly, apply a water bath or a double boiler.
I hope you enjoy this tutorial and have fun preparing some amazing butters for this coming autumn-winter.
For this project, I've applied an infusion of Alkanet root powder in organic Camelina oil as the colorant. You can completely do without any colorant but I like the appearance of the butter with alkanet. I recommend that you prepare your infusion in advance, you can prepare a 100 gr batch or scale up for higher volumes and then apply this infused oil in your soaps, lip balms, creams and other projects. The intensity and concentration depends on you but as a rough suggestion: weight 2-3 gr alkanet root powder in a glass jar. Add 100 gr camelina seed oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil or other oils of your choice (think about the oxidation stability of the oil and its iodine value as you chose the oil) to it and stir with a glass rod or spatula. Close the jar and keep it in a dark place (room temperature) and stir the jar every couple of days for almost 3 weeks. After that period you can filter the oil through an stainless steel sieve.
Before we start I want to recommend you to read our older posts and general information regarding hygienic manufacturing practice in cosmetic lab, introduction to Basic equipment and utensil for a cosmetic lab.
Disclaimer: I've applied organic peanut oil in this butter for its nourishing and skin feel. If you have peanut allergy, try another oil such as sunflower or poppy seed oil.
For this project (100 gr body butter) you'll need:
58% Shea butter (58,0 gr)
10,0% partially hydrogenated Soybean oil (10,0 gr)
8,0% organic Babassu oil (8,0 gr)
5% Mango butter (5,0%)
0,5% Tocopherol (0,5 gr)
8,5% organic Macadamia nut oil (8,5 gr)
5,0% organic peanut oil (5,0 gr)
2,0% infused alkanet in organic camelina oil (2,0 gr)
1,0% Calendul ainfusion in a suitable carrier oil (1,0 gr)
1,0% lipophilic aloe extract (1,0 gr)
1,0% Exotic mango fragrance oil (1,0 gr)
Disclaimer: Alkanet is considered hepatotoxic in edible use and by high concentration. There are no risks by a topical application and low dosages. If you want to avoid any risk however, or if you want to apply this butter for children, we recommend applying another plant seed/root powder such as annatto seed powder
you'll need as well
Beakers to melt and mix the ingredients
disposable pipettes
a water bath to melt the butters
glass rods or suitable spatulas or spoons
suitable jars to fill the butter
Here we go:
One: In a glass beaker melt all solid butters together (shea butter, babassu oil, partially hydrogenated soybean oil and mango butter) in a double boiler or water bath. (Water temperature should be between 55-60 degrees centigrade)
Two: When the butters are melted stop heating and add all other ingredients (except the fragrance oil) and mix gently
Three: At about 35 degrees centigrade add the fragrance oil and mix
Four: for small batches, pour the butter into the jar and continue stirring as the butter cools down. As the butter starts to solidify bring it into the fridge or let it solidify at room temperature.
For larger batches continue stirring the melted butter in the original container, as it starts to solidify pour it into jars and bring the jars into fridge or let them cool down at room temperature.
Voila, you're down.
There is no need to keep the butter in the fridge, but keep in mind that the consistency depends on the ambient temperature.
I hope you've enjoyed this tutorial. Thanks for your visit.
You can purchase all the ingredients for this project in SkinChakra® Online Shop.
BeHappy and have fun
Kommentare
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Beautiful colour Elham. Will the alkanet stay that shade in rebatch as I tried it In cold orocess and it went grey.
#1
Wendy Gardner
(Homepage)
am
07.09.2014 06:28
(Antwort)
In rebatch it would stay the shade because the soap is not as alkaline as a fresh soap, the lye is almost completely turned to soap, but generally the shade is much more vivid and brighter in a neutral matrix (lip balm, butter, cream, shampoo) compared to an alkaline soap
#1.1
Elham
am
07.09.2014 08:51
(Antwort)
Sounds worth investigating Love the final colour of your mango butter..such great ideas you have.
#2
Wendy Gardner
(Homepage)
am
07.09.2014 09:57
(Antwort)
Thank you Wendy. We loved the appearance as well and you can simply adjust the color by increasing the dosage of alkanet in your oil or varying the dosage of the oil in the product. Hope you'll enjoy experimenting.
#2.1
Elham
am
07.09.2014 14:13
(Antwort)
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