Hi everybody,
I'm back after a long break with the promised project. A super easy and all natural saponin based facial cleansing foam. We have been testing this foam and we love the texture and mildness.
I have blended Yucca schidigera and Quillaja saponaria extracts for this project. My Yucca extract is a concentrated liquid extract (ca 50%) and my Quillaja extract is a spray dried powder.
Before we proceed further, I want to invite you to read our previous posts regarding hygienic manufacturing practice in a cosmetic lab and basic equipments for a cosmetic lab.
This is a super easy and fast recipe. No heating, no cool-down, no lye, no ageing necessary.
I personally do not like to apply high concentrations of hydrosols or plant extracts in a rinse-off product but for this project I replaced all of the water with Chamomile hydrosol. There is no fragrance oil or essential oil in this recipe.
For a nice and smooth application, we didn't use any gum and filled the low viscosity liquid in a foam dispenser that works perfectly.
I've applied the very new "natural conform" preservative from Schülke, Euxyl K903 which is a blend of benzyl alcohol, benzoic acid, dehydroacetic acid and tocopherol. This is a very effective preservative at low concentrations. Just like all other weak organic acids, its efficacy is extremely pH dependant and optimum application pH is pH<6. In the EU there is a limitation for benzoic acid and benzyl alcohol concentration and the max. allowed concentration for Euxyl K903 is 1,23%. Keep that in mind if you're applying other ingredients that are preserved with benzyl alcohol or benzoic acid.
I boosted the preservative with Dermofeel® PA-3 which is a natural chelating agent: Sodium Phytate, Aqua, Alcohol and durch binding metal ions improves the efficacy of preservatives.
You can replace the hydrosol and extracts with any other hydrosl and extract, change the concentration or completely avoid them. This is just a guideline formulation for your orientation.
The final product has a cola-like brown colour (you can see the colour even in the foam) with a wooden-malty scent like dark beer, which is quite nice. These are characteristics of the extracts.
Here we go:
10,0% organic Yucca extract
5,0% organic Quillaja extract
2,5% organic Chamomile extract (hydroglyceric extract)
2,5% organic Aloe extract (hydroglyceric extract)
0,1% Dermofeel® PA-3
1,0% Euxyl K903
1,0% Vegeluron (plant based polysaccharide)
organic Chamomile hydrosol (to 100%)
Instruction:
Dissolve Quillaja powder in chamomile water. Add all other ingredients under mild stiring. In our case, we had a pH of 4,5 which was perfect and we didn't need to adjust the pH. Check your pH and adjust it around 4,5-5,5 with citric acid or lactic acid if necessary.
Finish. as easy as that. Fill the liquid in a foam dispenser and enjoy the mild and fluffy foam.
Have a nice time testing this recipe.
Here is another great article about quillaja extract in cosmetics.
