In my obsession with modified lecithin, I've another amazing and easy to make formulation to share with you.
This is a mild cleansing milk with 10% oil phase. I've applied one of my favorite plant oils which is perilla seed oil, an amazing oil with a very light skin feel and high in Omega-3 content.
For this milk, I've pre-blended the lysolecithin and the gum in a 75:25 ratio. This blend was prepared one week before application. You can make this milk with a pre-mixed lyolecithin-gum blend or make it as I did it in this tutorial. In that case, I recommend to disperse the xanthan in the oil phase for an easier dispersion and to avoid any clumps.
As the surfactant, I've used 5.0% coco-glucoside. I know most "naturalists" don't consider it quite a natural ingredient and I'm working on another version of this milk with saponins instead of surfactants. It's up to you to apply a natural or naturally derived surfactant or go without it.
Anyway, the preparation is quite easy. Everything is cold blended which gives you endless opportunities to apply plant extracts and hydrosols and sensitive plant oils. Since this is a rinse-off product, I didn't apply any hydrosol but again, it's up to you to apply any hydrosol or not.
I personally prefer this product to be rinsed of. Some like it to be applied by a cotton pad and don't rinse it off which is quite alrigh as well regarding the low concentration of the surfactant. The viscosity is suitable for a lotion pump and allows a hygienic application.
Here we go:
Oil phase:
9.5% Perilla seed oil
0.5% Tocopherol
0.5% Glyceryl caprylate
Water phase (part a)
to 100.0% deionized water
3.0% Lysolecithin
1.0% Xanthan gum
4.0% Glycerin
0.5% Panthenol
1.0% Coco-glucoside, glyceryl-oleate
3.0% Vegeluron
Water phase (part b)
0.1% Dermofeel® PA-3
5.0% coco-glucoside
1.0% Euxyl® K903
Part C
Lactic acid to adjust the pH
0.5% grapefruit essential oil
Instruction:
1- Blend the lysolecithin-gum premix with the water for about 45 minutes in advance. It is better to let this mix with a magnetic stirrer or an overhead stirrer. If you have no access to any of these, mix with a hand whisk and blend it every now and then for 45 minutes. Lysolecithin needs time to absorb water and become more hydrophilic.
If you have not pre-mixed the gum and lysolecithin in advance, just blend the lysolecithin and water and blend the gum in the oil phase
2- Blend perilla seed oil, tocopherol and glyceryl caprylate to a homogenous mixture in a separate beaker.
3- After 45 minutes of blending lysolecithin-water, add other ingredients of part a under gentle stirring: glycerin, panthenol, vegeluron and coco-glucoside/glyceryl oleate.
4- Add the oil phase to the water phase under stirring. At this point a pre-emulsion is formed. Use any of the 6 methods explained in the last post to make the emulsion. Even a hand whisk is enough if you're making low volumes and for your own application. For professional applications and for higher volumes use one of the blenders I've suggested in the last post or any other blender you usually use and prefer.
5- After the emulsion is formed, add ingredients of part b under gentle stirring. You don't want to agitate vigorously to avoid the surfactant making foams and bubbles.
6- Adjust the pH with lactic acid. For the preservative I'm using, the optimum pH is between 5.0-5.5. If you're using another preservative, check the optimum efficacy pH of your preservative.
7- Add the essential oil (or avoid it completely if you prefer)
Fill in a lotion bottle and enjoy the skin feel.
Thanks for your visit
