I was challenged to prepare an emulsion with cocoa butter as the main ingredient. I peresonally have applied cocoa butter in balms, butters, bath & body melts, shower butters etc. but have never applied much cocoa butter in an emulsion. To stick to my KISS principle and observe how it behaves, I used it as the main lipophilic ingredient in a series of emulsions.
The four emulsions in the above photo have exactly the same formulation except for the emulsifier and as it is quite obvious, the outcome is quite different regarding the texture, appearance and viscosity of the final products.
Depending on the emulsifier applied you can get light, silky emulsions to heavy butter like creams.
I'll come to these emulsions later and would share their exact formulations and manufacturing procedure with you. The emulsifiers are rather different in their modes of application.
The main formula is however:
25.0% cocoa butter
0.5% squalane
0.5% Dermosoft® GMCY
0.5% alpha- Tocopherol
25.0% Neroli hydrosol
4.0% Vegeluron ®
2.0% Surose cocoate
2.0% Coco-glucoside, glyceryl oleate
2.5% hydroglyceric green tea extract
0.5% panthenol
4.0% Glycerin
0.2% Acacia gum
0.3% xanthan gum
0.1% Dermofeel® PA-3
0.8% Euxyl® K903
X% emulsifier (this is variable for the emulsifiers)
distilled water (to 100%)
Depending on the emulsifier, the manufacturing procedure was different (oil phase added to the water phase or vice versa or "one pot" method).
By applying ingredients such as coconut oil, shea butter or cocoa butter in an emulsion, the cool down phase is extremely important. If you do not blend the emulsion long enough, these high melting point ingredients crystalize and separate from the emulsion in less than 48 hours.
For this project, I have applied the following emulsifiers:
Xyliance® from Soliance
Olivem® 1000 from Hallstar
Sucramulse®from Alfa Chemicals
TEGO ® Care PSC 3 from Evonik
I'll share more infos soon.
