Freitag, 8. April 2016
"Soothe my skin" facial lotion
Hi everybody,
in my obsession for Sucrose stearate and soothing and anti-inflammatory skin care, I prepaared a cold process emulsion rich in anti-inflammatory ingredients (oat , perilla oil, evening primrose oil, yarrow, witch hazel, liquorice and jiaogulanas) including 2 adaptogen herbs (jiaogulan and liquorice).
This is a very light lotion with low viscosity suitable for pumpspray or a lotion pump and would pamper sensitized and inflamed skin without any unpleasant greasiness. Cold process allows you applying sensitive plant oils and extracts in the formulation. Sucrose stearate could be added both to water and oil phase. In this formulation I applied it in the oil phase and added the oil phase to the water phase.
Before we start I want to recommend you to read our older posts: hygienic manufacturing practice in cosmetic lab and introduction to Basic equipments and utensils for a cosmetic lab.
Here is the recipe:
Phase A | |
Sucrose stearate | 2.5% |
Organic perilla seed oil | 16.0% |
Tocopherol | 0.5% |
Rosemary CO2 extract | 0.1% |
Phase B | |
Witch hazel hydrosol | 30.0% |
Phase C | |
Witch hazel hydrosol | to 100.0% |
Panthenol | 0.5% |
Sodium lactate | 2.0% |
Jiaogulan hydroglyceric extract | 2.0% |
Liquorice hydroglyceric extract | 2.0% |
Yarrow hydroglyceric extract | 2.0% |
Na-PCA | 1.0% |
Vegeluron® | 3.0% |
Dermofeel® PA3 | 0.1% |
Arvena sative (oat) kernel flour | 2.0% |
Phase D | |
Organic evening primrose oil | 3.0% |
Xanthan gum | 0.5% |
Phase E | |
Euxyl® K903 | 0.5% |
Dermosoft® 1388 eco | 2.5% |
Lactic acid 80% | to adjust the pH |
Phase F | |
Cedarwood essential oil | 0.1% |
Patchouli essential oil | 0.2% |
Procedure:
1- Blend ingredients of phase A in a beaker at room temperature. Sucrose stearate does not dissolve in oil, it only disperses in oil
2- Little by little add Witch hazel of phase B to phase A under stitting. A pre-emulsion is formed
3- In another beaker blend all ingredients of phase C (except the oat). Disperse the oat flour at the end
4- Add phase C to the pre-emulsion and homogenize for 1-4 minutes depending on your homogenizer and the batch size
5- In a small beaker blend the gum and evening primrose oil
6- Add the gum phase to the emulsion while stirring the emulsion to avoid building of any clumps
7-Adjust the pH with lactic acid between 4.5-5.0 and add the preservatives
8- Re-check the pH and re-adjust it if necessary. Add the essential oils
9- Take your micro kit sample and fill the emulsion is a suitable bottle.
I hope you'll enjoy making this emulsion. Thank you for being here and for sending me your comments and photos. I really enjoy your participation in our Facebook discussions.
Be Happy and have fun