Samstag, 20. August 2016
Turmeric oleogel self-emulsifying mask
The fourth mask of our colourful August masks is an anti-inflammatory and self-emulsifying oleogel mask.
If you've not yet read the previous tutorials, you can find them here:
How to make a hydrogel mask
Avocado self-emulsifying oleogel mask
"Tangerin Jelly" facial mask
Self-emulsifying oleogels are quite easy to make and since there is no water in the formulation, there is no need for preservation. This makes them excellent products for DIY and hobbyists who just want to make their own products for personal purposes, for students of skin care with little experience in preservation and for start-up entrepreneurs who are not yet ready to pay huge amounts for microbial challenge tests and TVC tests.
For this mask, we've focused on anti-inflammatory properties of turmeric which is gaining more popularity as a cosmeceutical, dietary supplement and as a drug. There are hindreds of scientific studies about the application of turmeric in general and its main constituents in skin care and I just link here one of the latest publications in this regard.
Let's go to our mask.
This is a high viscosity mask (as you see in the photo) which is better applied with a spatula than a brush. If you prefer a lower viscosity, you can increase the glycerin concentration and reduce the oil concentration (up to 30% glycerin would be suitable for a mask, higher concentrations would make it too runny)
As always, I kept it very easy. Feel free to swapt the oils and extract with those you have in your stash or you prefer. The most important part is the balance of glycerin/oil phase for the viscosity.
Ingredients
Phase A | |
Dermofeel G5O | 6.0% |
Glycerine 99,5% | 24.0% |
Phase B | |
Turmeric infused organic jojoba oil | 24.5% |
Organic camelina oil | 10.0% |
Organic apricot kernel oil | 8.0% |
Vanilla infused organic castor oil | 3.8% |
Squalane | 3.0% |
St john's worth infused organic almond oil | 3.0% |
Chamomile infused organic jojoba oil | 5.0% |
Organic evening primrose oil | 3.0% |
Organic poppy seed oil | 5.0% |
Lavender infusion in organic castor oil | 2.0% |
Sandalwood-clove bud infusion in organic castor oil | 1.0% |
Tocopherol | 1.0% |
Rosemary CO2 extract | 0.1% |
a-bisabolol | 0.1% |
Organic manuka essential oil | 0.1% |
Organic cedarwood essential oil | 0.2% |
Organic patchouli essential oil | 0.1% |
Organic Amyris essential oil | 0.1% |
Procedure:
1- Blend glycerine and Dermofeel G5O @RT. This is easily done by a spatula or glass rod.
2- Blend all ingredients in phase B @RT. very slowly (and this is the most important part of the whole procedure) add phase B to phase A in small aliquots. Blend after each addition to completely incorporate the oil. Do not let any oil pool to be formed. If the oil is not correctly incorporated you have to discard the whole batch because you'll end up with a 2 phasic something that is neither an oil nor a gel. Try to avoid any agitation. You don't want any bubbles to get trapped in your gel.
3- After all of the oil phase is added and incorporated stop blending. The gel might look a little bit turbid but it is because of some air bubbles.
4- Fill the gel in a pretty container and voila, this is your oleogel mask full of amazing nutritive and anti-oxidant ingredients.
It's your turn now to create some amazing masks. Feel free to send us your photos and comment either per mail or to our Facebook page. If you post any photos on Instagram, don't forget to tag @SkinChakra.