Spicy body lotion with Xyliance

Xylaince is one of the earliest PEG-free and natural emulsifiers available and it is still as lovely and popular as it was more than one decade ago. I've written a complete blog post about how to work with Xyliance and we have had a lovely guest post about making a facial rich cream with this emulsifier.

Xylaince is an emulsifier for high oil phase concentrations (25-45%) with a medium to high viscosity. Despite the high oil phase it doesn't feel greasy or sticky and it doesn't have the undesirable soapiness we know from Olivem 1000.

Although we're still enjoying an extremely hot summer, I endulged in making a rich and spicy body lotion (probably to soothe my nostalgy for middle east and middle eastern spices). The skin feel is really lovely specially as a night (after shower) emulsion. I know that for Europeans and Americans cinnamon and cardamon associate with Xmas. For me as a middle eastern, they belong to everyday life. Feel free to change the scents/spices or use this recipe for your winter/Xmas collection. The sky is the limit.

Formulation:

Procedure:

1- Blend phase A and B in separate beakers. Put phase B in a hot water bath (70-75 ^oC). As the wax and butter are melted, put the beaker with phase A for a short time (2-3 minutes) in the same water bath.

2- Stop heating and add all of the water phase (A) to the oil phase (B). Homogenize for a few minutes.

3- Start stirring and cooling down.

4- Blend phase C and D in separate beakers. Add phase C to the emulsion. Disperse the glycerin/gum phase in the emulsion and homogenize for a few minutes again.

5- Continue stirring. As the meulsion reaches a temperature fo about 35 ^oC add phase E which contains the rest of the lipophilic phase. I have intentionally added lecithing to this phase. I use it for its skin feel enhancing and barrier repair properties but I don't want it to meddle with the emulsifier.

6- As the emulsion is cooled down to 20-25 ^oC prepare a 10% dilution in distilled water and measure the pH before adding the preservatives. In our case the pH was 5,21 and we could add the preservative without any adjustments. If your preservative system has other requirements makes sure the pH is in the range as you add the preservative.

7- Add the preservative and measure the pH again. In our case it was 5,29 and there was no need to adjust the pH. You need to adjust the pH in the range of your preservative efficacy and you may need to either increase the pH with sodium hydroxide (or sodium bicarbonate) or reduce it with lactic acid  or citric acid.

8- Take your stability and microkit samples and fill the rest in a suitable container.

Enjoy the skin feel and the middle eastern scent of the emulsion.

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BeHappy and have fun