I have been playing with Plantasens HE20 and SCI for years but never came to the idea of blending them together. This sparkle came from one of our customers and readers, Juliette from France and I was quite disappointed why it hasn't occured to me earlier to combine these two amazing ingredients together.
The results is....
oh my, just make a sample to see for yourself. This is the "creme de la creme", a magnificent product that you can use as a facial cleansing milk or shower cream. It pampers and moisturizes the skin and sends you to heaven as you apply it to your skin.....
Ingredients:
Phase A |
|
Distilled water @ around 70oC |
to 100,0% |
Sodium cocoyl isethionate (SCI 80%) |
10,0% |
Plantasens HE20 |
5,0% |
Phase B |
|
Moringa oil |
3,0% |
Olive Squalane |
1,0% |
Green tea wax |
1,0% |
Natural tocopherols |
0,5% |
Allantoin |
1,0% |
Phase C |
|
Glycerine |
5,0% |
Solagum AX |
0,4% |
Phase D |
|
Coco glucoside |
5,0% |
Decyl glucoside |
5,0% |
Coco glucoside, glyceryl oleate |
1,0% |
Sodium lactate |
1,0% |
Skin prebiotic |
1,0% |
Natural chelator PA-3 |
0,1% |
Spectrastat G2N |
0,8% |
Green mandarine oil |
0,6% |
Lemon zest oil |
0,2% |
Cedarwood oil |
0,2% |
Phase E |
|
Lactic acid 80,0% |
to adjust the pH |
Procedure:
1- Heat the water (you can even boil it if you want but then let it cool down) to ca. 70 oC. Add the rest of phase A to the beaker and let it stand for about 1 hour. Both SCI and Plantasens HE20 swell in warm water and make the blending/emulsifying much easier
2- After about one hour, heat phase A and B separately in a waterbath at aroud 65-70 oC. You may wonder why I have added the allantoin in the oil phase. It is not soluble in the oil and you need to stir this phase to keep it suspended. I added it to the oil phase so that I could apply a higher dosage (1,0%) compared to allantoins solubility in water (0,2%)
3- Wait till both pahses reach the same temperature and the tea wax is melted in the oil phase. Homogenize the water phase for a short while.
4- Stop heating, slowly add phase B to A and homogenize again.
5- Add phase C (the gum/glycerine phase) and blend
6- Start cooling down and stirring
7- As the temperature reaches around 40 add phase D (the surfactant phase) slowly while blending.
8- Blend gently to avoid foaming.
9- This blend will have a pH around 7 (prepare a 10,0% dilution in distilled water and measure the pH)
10- Add lactic acid to reduce the pH. We've used Spectrastat G2-N in this formulation whose performance is independent on pH. We aimed for a pH between 4,5-5,0 and added ca. 0,5% lactic acid 80% to reach to a pH of 4,5
11- Take your stability and micro kit samples and fill the rest in a suitable bottle
12- Enjoy the divine skin feel of this prebiotic cleansing milk
BeHappy and have fun