Coffee scrub is one of my absolute favourites (although I don't drink coffee) and I have made and shared several variations during the past years. It is a classic product which never goes out of fashion and is loved by all generations and cultures.
In this tutorial, we have combined a coffee scrub and shower bar in a 2in1 product which is fun to make and even more fun to use.
Formulation:
Phase A |
|
Distilled or deionized water |
to 100,0% |
Organic glycerine |
5,0% |
Plant based pentylene glycol |
4,0% |
Sodium cocoyl isethionate SCI |
25,0% |
Phase B |
|
Myrica fruit wax |
9,0% |
Rice bran wax |
5,0% |
Babassu oil |
5,0% |
Natural tocopherols |
0,5% |
Phase C |
|
Proteol APL EF |
8,0% |
Decyl glucoside |
5,0% |
Na lactate |
2,0% |
Na PCA |
1,0% |
Olive squalane |
1,0% |
Coffee CO2 extract |
1,0% |
Cardamon CO2 extract |
0,2% |
Rosemary CO2 extract |
0,1% |
Antimicrobial CO2 extract |
0,1% |
Lactic acid 80,0% |
to adjust the pH |
Phase D |
|
Coffee powder |
7,0% |
Procedure:
1- Weight all phases in separate beakers.
2- SCI does not dissolve in water, you need to heat it at high temperature to make it swell in water (you'll need heat-proof gloves)
This step takes a long time. Have patience
Heat phase A in a water bath at 90 oC. Blend the contents during heating. You may need a broad spatula or a hand mini-whisk for this step.
3- Heat your wax phase in another bath at 70-75 oC.
4- When both phase A and B are ready (your beakers are still in the water bath) slowly add phase B to phase A and blend gently (you want to avoid excessive foam). Keep the beaker in the bath but stop heating
5- Now add phase C. Keep the beaker still in the water bath
6- Add phase D and blend. The blend might clump at first but don't worry, continue stirring till you reach a pourable consistency. You can use your kai blendia for this step.
7- Prepare a 10% dilution in distilled water and measure the pH (we used 1,1% lactic acid for pH adjustment. The final pH was 4,9. Depending on the ingredients you use, you may need more or less lactic acid. Prepare a small trial batch to find out how much lactic acid you'll need for pH adjustment)
Note the pH for your next batch. In ideal case, it should be between 4,5-5,5. If it is too acidic use less lactic acid for your next batch. If it is higher than 5,5 use slightly more lactic acid for your next batch.
8- Now pour the blend into your mould cavities. You can use all the moulds you use for M&P soap.
9- The top of the mould (which is the bottom of the shampoo bar) might have some air bubbles. Tap your mould on the counter to bring all bubbles to the surface.
10- Put the mould in the fridge (we let it rest overnight)
11- Remove your bars from the mould
Enjoy the lovely scent and the luxurious skin feel.
BeHappy and have fun