I personally can not have enough of scrub. I almost use them every other day and love all available sorts: water based, oil based, oleogel etc.
Today I have a lovely cream scrub with is not exactly a shower cream but is rinsed very easily and doesn't leave any greasy and sticky skin feel. Depending on your shower habits, the climate and your skin type, you may even use this as a facial cleanser or shower cream.
Before you proceed, please go back to this blog post where I have thoroughly explained what you need to consider when formulating scrubs.
Ingredients:
Phase A |
|
Freshly boiled deionized or distilled water |
to 100,0% |
Natural chelator PA-3 |
0,1% |
Skin prebiotic |
1,0% |
Aloe powder |
1,0% |
L-Arginin |
to adjust the pH (ca. 0,1%) |
Phase B |
|
Solagum AX |
0,5% |
Sclerotium |
0,1% |
Glycerin |
5,0% |
Panthenol |
1,0% |
Phase C |
|
PolyAquol 2W |
5,0% |
Olive squalane |
2,0% |
Cetyl alcohol |
1,0% |
Natural tocopherols |
0,5% |
Baobab oil |
20,0% |
Phase D |
|
Coco glucoside |
5,0% |
Phase E |
|
Euxyl K903 |
1,0% |
Cedarwood oil |
0,4% |
Winter green oil |
0,1% |
Pine oil |
0,1% |
Lemon zest oil |
0,3% |
Phase F |
|
Volcanic sand |
10,0% |
Before we start:
As per experience I know that the preservative I'm using in this system reduces the pH. This is why I'm adding the L-Arginine from the beginning. Depending on the ingredients you use and the requirements for your preservative system you may need to decrease the pH at the end or if you're very lucky you may just land at a point when you don't need any pH-adjustment.
Prepare your first batch in a minimum possible quantity and see how you need to change/adjust the pH and use this knowledge for your successive batches.
Procedure:
1- Blend all ingredients of phase A in a heat proof beaker.
2- Blend phase B in a small beaker
3- Disperse phase B in A while stirring
4- Blend phase C in another heat proof beaker
5- When all of the gum phase is dispersed in phase A put phace C and A+B in a water bath at 80-85 oC.
6- When both phases have reached the temperature and the oil phase is melted to a smooth liquid remove both beakers from the bath and slowly add the oil phase to the water phase under stirring.
7- Homogenize for a short while
8- Add the surfactant under a very slow stirring. You don't want to incorporate foam.
9- Prepare a 10% dilution of the emulsion in distilled water and measure the pH. For this preservative system it should be at least 5,7 when you add the preservative. If you are using other ingredients you may need another pH range before adding the preservative.
10- Add ingredients of phase E and blend. Prepare another 10% dilution and remeasure the pH. In our case it was 5,2 which was perfectly in range.
11- Now disperse the volcanic sand. Try to avoid agitation.
12- Take your stability and microkit samples and fill the rest in a suitable container. A tube is the most hygienic and practical container for a scrub cream that you use under shower. By this emulsifier, the viscosity increases during the first 24 hours. You may want to cover the cream in the beaker and fill it after 24 hours.
BeHappy and have fun