I usually try to share KISS formulations and focus on the technique but every now and then I indulge myself with a non-KISS formulation (just to make sure I have not forgotten making complicated products).
This formulation was inspired by Helga from Germany who was so generous to share one of her creations with us.
This luxurious, yet light moisturizer brings a multitude of benefits to your skin.
As it sinks in, it works to simultaneously quench thirsty skin cells and protect them from damaging environmental factors.
Gently smooth away fine lines as you inhale the subtle mingling scent of frankincense, helichrysum, and cedarwood essential oils.
We have combined 3 different molecular weights of hyaluronic acid, skin prebiotic and lots of effective plant oils, extracts and essential oils.
The procedure might sound complicated at the first place but once you know why you do what you do, it becomes easy peasy.
Ingredients:
| Phase A | |
| Freshly boiled distilled water |
to 100,0% |
| Natural chelator PA-3 | 0,1% |
| Na-PCA | 2,0% |
| L-Arginin | 0,2% |
| Phase B | |
| Helichrysum hydrosol | 10,0% |
| Allantoin | 0,1% |
| Skin prebiotic | 1,5% |
| Phase C | |
| Hyaluron low MW | 0,1% |
| Hyluron high MW | 0,1% |
| Hyaluron oligo | 0,1% |
| Phase D | |
| Baobab oil | 10,0% |
| Apricot oil | 5,0% |
| Green tea wax | 1,5% |
| PolyAquol 2W | 5,0% |
| Natural tocopherols | 0,5% |
| Phase E | |
| Hemp seed oil | 5,0% |
| Rosehip oil | 1,0% |
| Evening primrose CO2 | 1,0% |
| Chamomile CO2 extract | 0,2% |
| Rosemary CO2 | 0,1% |
| Phase F | |
| Glycerine | 4,0% |
| Solagum AX | 0,3% |
| Phase G | |
| Versatile preservative TBG | 1,0% |
| Helichrysum oil | 0,1% |
| Cedarwood oil | 0,1% |
| Frankincense oil | 0,1% |
Procedure:
1- Prepare phase A and D in two separate heatproof beakers. Heat both beakers in a water bath between 75-80 oC
2- Disperse the 3 hyalurons (phase C) in phase B @RT. A magnetic stirrer is a great help
3- When both phase A and D come to temperature and all phase D is a uniform liquid stop heating, remove the beakers from the bath and add phase D to A. Homogenize for a few minutes
4- Stop stirring. Now disperse the gum+glycerine blend in the emulsion (no need to wait for the emulsion to cool down)
5- Stir as the emulsion cools down. At a temperature <35 oC add the hyaluron phase and then slowly add phase E. Blend completely and homogenize again if necessary
6- Prepare a 10% dilution of the emulsion and measure the pH. In our case it was 6,6 and this was OK for addition of our preservative. If you work with other ingredients you may need to adjust the pH before adding the preservative
7- Add the preservative. Prepare another 10% dilution and remeasure the pH. in our case it eas 5,3 which is perfectly in range (5,2-5,5) for our selected ingredients. Depending on the ingredients you use, you may need to decrease or increase the pH at this step.
8- Add the essential oils and blend.
8- Take your micro kit and stability samples and fill the rest in a suitable container. With this emulsifier, the viscosity stabilizes after about 24 hours. Wait till you decide which container is more suitable.
BeHappy and have fun
