Donnerstag, 11. Juli 2019
Devil detox: gel-to-milk activated bamboo charcoal facial cleanser
Gel-to-milk cleansers are among the most popular skin cleansing products since a few years and we have shared several tutorials during the past 5 years.
This is a concept with unlimited possibilities and you can be creative as often as you wish.
For todays tutorial I have chosen a deep cleansing with activated bamboo charcoal for acne-prone and irritated skin.
Formulation:
| Phase A | |
| Glycerine | 55,0% |
| Sucrose stearate | 2,0% |
| Phase B | |
| Castor oil | 10,0% |
| Camelina oil | 10,9% |
| Poppy seed oil | 10,0% |
| Squalane | 3,0% |
| Tocopherol | 0,5% |
| Activated bamboo charcoal | 3,0% |
| Phase C | |
| Isoamyl laurate | 2,0% |
| Evening primrose CO2 extract | 1,0% |
| Natural active decalact sebum | 1,0% |
| alpha-bisabolol | 0,2% |
| Rosemary CO2 extract | 0,1% |
| Myrrh CO2 extract | 0,1% |
| Curcuma Xanthorrhiza CO2 extract | 0,1% |
| Calendula CO2 extract | 0,1% |
| Bergamot oil | 0,2% |
| Lemon zest oil | 0,4% |
| Cedarwood oil | 0,3% |
| Wintergreen oil | 0,1% |
Procedure:
1- Blend glycerine and sucrose stearate in a beaker. The dispersion would be easier and better if you keep this beaker at room temperature for 1-2 hours before heating it.
2- Blend all the ingredients of phase B and C in separate beakers.
3- Put both phases A and B in the water bath at around 70-75 oC.
Sucrose stearate would neither melt nor dissolve in glycerine, it just swells to make a kind of white paste
4- Slowly and little by little add the oil phase to the glycerine phase (both beakers are still in the water bath). Blend completely before adding the next aliquot.
5- After the whole oil phase is added to the glycerine phase stop heating and remove the beaker from the bath. Stir gently to avoid foaming
6- Stir further till the temperature drops <40 oC. Now add phase C which consists of your heat sensitive oils, plant extracts and the essential oils.
7- Take your stability samples and fill the rest in a suitable container. We've used tubes to avoid contact with the wet or dirty fingers and since the product does not contain any water, it's self-preserving and doesn't need any preservative. If you use another container you may need a preservative.
Click on the photo for access to the pdf file with full formulation and procedure:
BeHappy and have fun
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