If you have the opinion that W/O emulsions are something for cold and dry weather or extremely dry and chappy skin, you'll change your mind after using this emulsion.
This is almost a KISS formulation and since it's cold processed I took the liberty of applying rather heat/oxidation sensitive plant oils. The blend is a medium viscosity lotion with a very light skin feel.
I wanted to make a special lotion with high panthenol content that is not easily washed off (from the hands) and that releases all the goodness gradually to the skin. This is a part of a formulation challenge in a private formulating group. I used Spectrastat G2-N to be able to reduce the pH. The procedure is quite straightforward and not complicated.
Formulation:
Phase A |
|
Meadowsweet hydrosol |
25,0% |
Yarrow hydrosol |
to 100,0% |
Glycerine |
3,0% |
Panthenol |
5,0% |
Vegeluron |
5,0% |
L-Arginin |
0,25% |
MgCl2 |
1,0% |
Phase B |
|
Neocare P3R |
4,0% |
Watermelon seed oil |
4,0% |
Plum kernel oil |
5,0% |
Strawberry seed oil |
3,0% |
Cherry kernel oil |
3,0% |
Raspberry seed oil |
2,0% |
Cucumber seed oil |
2,0% |
Prickly pear seed oil |
1,0% |
Spectrastat G2N |
0,8% |
Goji berry CO2 extract |
0,5% |
Grapefruit oil |
0,5% |
Lavender CO2 extract |
0,1% |
Coconut CO2 extract |
0,1% |
alpha-bisabolol |
0,1% |
Rosemary CO2 extract |
0,1% |
Procedure:
1- Blend all the ingredients in phase A and B in separate beakers at room temperature.
2- Prepare a 10% dilution of phase A and measure the pH. In our case it was 4,5. Depending on the ingredients you use you may have another pH for this phase. Adjust the pH according to your requirements and to the optimum pH for the preservative system.
3- Very slowly and gradually add the water phase to the oil phase. Stir completely after adding each aliquot. An overhead stirrer is quite helpful but you can make small batches without a stirrer as well.
4- After adding all of the water phase blend for a few minutes. This emulsifier doesn't like very high shear and turbo mixing. If you use a homogenizer use it only at low shear and for a short time.
5- Take your stability and micro kit samples and fill the rest in a suitable container.
Bonus:
Want to have this tutorial as a pdf file? Click on the following photo.
BeHappy and have fun