I made this emulsion as a special birthday gift for a special friend and the outcome was so amazing I couldn't help sharing it with you.
The lotion is packed with carotenoids, skin pampering extracts and oils (moringa oil, amaranth extract, carrot extract and sea buckthorn extract) and delicious natural scents (CO2 extracts of cardamon, coffee, cocoa, clove and cinnamon).
This is a hot process emulsion with Polyaquol 2W as the emulsifier and brassica alcohol to enhance the texture. Vegeluron, renoumer and skin prebiotic, the holy trinity of water containing skincare are added after the emulsification and during the cool down.
Formulation:
Phase A |
|
Distilled water |
to 100,0% |
NaPCA |
2,5% |
Panthenol |
1,0% |
Natural chelator PA-3 |
0,1% |
Phase B |
|
Solagum AX |
0,5% |
Phase C |
|
Polyaquol 2W |
5,0% |
Brassica alcohol |
1,0% |
Camelina oil |
10,0% |
Moringa oil |
5,0% |
Squalane |
3,0% |
Tocopherol |
0,5% |
Phase D |
|
Vegeluron |
3,0% |
Renoumer |
1,0% |
Skin prebiotic |
2,0% |
Phase E |
|
Sea buckthron CO2 extract |
1,0% |
Carrot CO2 extract |
1,0% |
Amaranth CO2 extract |
1,0% |
Coffee CO2 extract |
0,5% |
Cocoa CO2 extract |
0,5% |
Cardamon CO2 extract |
0,2% |
Cinnamon CO2 extract |
0,1% |
Clove CO2 extract |
0,1% |
Spectrastat G2N |
1,0% |
Phase F |
|
Lactic acid |
to adjust the pH |
Look at the texture in this short video.
Procedure:
1- Blend phase A and phase C in separate beakers.
2- Disperse the gum in phase A @RT. Then heat phase (A+B) and phase C in a water bath at around 70-75 oC.
3- When all the ingredients in phase C are melted uniformly remove both beakers from the bath and slowly add the oil phase to the water phase.
4- Homogenize for a few minutes and start cooling down while stirring.
6- At a temperature around 50 oC add phase D and blend. Then add phase E and blend. Continue cooling down and stirring.
7- When the emulsion has reached the room temperature prepare a 10% dilution and measure the pH. The preservative we are using works independent of pH but still you want to keep the emulsion skin friendly (a pH between 4,8-5,3)
In our case the pH was 5,5 and we added a few drops of 40% lactic acid to reduce the pH to 5,1.
8- Take your stability and micro kit samples and fill the rest in a suitable container
BeHappy and have fun