Last year I published this blog post:
which happened to become very popular.
This year, I prepared another version of this formulation with a "cream-to.powder" concept for a special gift and I couln't resist sharing the formulation with you.
The butter has a "powdery" skin feel which comes from the high load of powders added (rice starch, oat silk and yellow Brazilian clay). The powders impart a luxurious dry (and nor greasy) skin feel while the skin still benefits from all the amazing butters, oils and extracts. I chose the scents of cinnamon, cardamon, coffee, cocoa and clove not only because the combination matches the colour but because it's, "oh holy moly" so yummy.
I have done something extraordinary here. I've added 2% of our Neocare P3R which is actually a W/O emulsifier to this butter. You'll certainly ask "why on earth does a balm need a W/O emulsifier?"
And I say, I'll disclose the main reason in another tutorial and feel free to replace it with a butter but if you have this ingredient in your stash, add it to the butter to experience the amazing impact it has on the texture and skin feel.
Formulation:
Phase A |
|
Myrica fruit wax |
10,0% |
Babassu oil |
15,0% |
Muru muru butter |
15,0% |
Plum butter |
5,0% |
Sunflower lecithin |
0,5% |
Neocare P3R |
2,0% |
Phase B |
|
Moringa oil |
14,0% |
Olive squalane |
3,0% |
Tocopherol |
0,5% |
Bisabolol |
0,2% |
Phase C |
|
Poppy seed oil |
10,0% |
St John's wort oil |
5,0% |
Black cumin CO2 extract |
1,0% |
Modified rice starch |
10,0% |
Oat silk |
2,0% |
Yellow Brazilian clay |
3,0% |
Allantoin |
1,0% |
Cocoa CO2 extract |
1,0% |
Coffee CO2 extract |
1,0% |
Clove bud CO2 extract |
0,5% |
Cardamon CO2 extract |
0,1% |
Cinnamon bark CO2 extract |
0,1% |
Rosemary CO2 extract |
0,1% |
Procedure:
1- Phase each phase separately in a beaker
2- Melt phase A in a water bath at around 70 degrees
3- When phase A is melted take the beaker from the water bath and gently stir.
4- Add phase B and start cooling down while stirring.
5- As the temperature below 50 degrees add phase C . Keep in mind that the powders do not dissolve in the oil, you need to stir this phase to keep everything suspended before adding phase C to A+B
6- Continue cooling and stirring until you reach a heavy trace. At this point you can either fill your containers or go one step further and whip the butter.
7- Repeat whipping-cooling steps till you reach the desired consistency.
8- Fill in jars and close the lid.
Watch this video for the full tutorial
BeHappy and have fun