I started making and using my own kajals a long time ago but I didn't share any tutorials. With the arrival of our new beautiful "natural" jumbo pencils and after we shared a few photos, you've asked for the tutorial and here we are.
I have made this formulation both with the brazilian black clay and with the bamboo charcoal .
The charcoal version has a darker colour compared to the brazilian clay which is more grayish. By combining the two of them you can create a range of gray to black colours which makes the whole range fascinating.
Here I'm sharing the formulation with the bamboo charcoal and you can replace it 1:1 with the black clay or blend both of them to a total concentration of 20%.
Keep in mind that although this is a waterless product (usually self-preserving), you need to be extremely careful with the choice of raw material as well as GMP. I didn't mention this in the video because I think it's quite obvious and a matter of fact in a cosmetic lab but please please pay more attention than usual. This is a product that comes near to your eyes. Disinfect all of the beakers and spatulas with alcohol or sterilize them in an autoclave if you have one available.
Formulation:
Phase A |
|
Myrica fruit wax |
25,0% |
Rice bran wax |
6,0% |
Cocoa butter |
9,0% |
Murumuru butter |
5,0% |
Olive squalane |
3,0% |
Berry wax |
2,0% |
Phase B |
|
Jojoba oil |
14,0% |
Castor oil |
13,2% |
Evening primrose CO2 extract |
1,0% |
Tocopherol |
0,5% |
Echinacea CO2 extract |
0,1% |
Bamboo charcoal |
20,0% |
Oat silk |
1,0% |
Allantoin |
0,2% |
Procedure:
Although it might seem complicated, the manufacturing process is quite straightforward. All you need is a steady hand to pour the pencils.
1- Heat phase A in a heat proof beaker at 75-85 degreed (C)
2- Blend phase B. The powders obviously do not dissolve in the liquids. They should be completely blended and suspended though. Heat this phase at around 50 degrees.
3- As you are waiting for the wax to melt prepare the pencils for pouring. Close the plastic (bio plastic) end cap and wrap the pencil in a paper towel and put it upside up in a narrow beaker. The pencil shal remain steady in a vertical position. Alternatively you can use a lipstick mould to place the pencil in a vertical position.
4- When phase A is completely melted, heat phase B in the same bath for a short while. This is to avoid a shock cooling of the wax phase when you blend both phases.
5- Add the wax phase to the pigment phase and blend completely.
6- Remove the beaker from the bath and with a steady hand pour the content into your pencils. Bring the pencils immediately into freezer. Wait for around 15 minutes.
7- Remove the pencils from the freezer. Wait for them to reach the room temperature. Then use a suitable sharpener that you only use for cosmetics to sharpen the kajals.
8- Voila, here you have your beautiful natural kajal.
This is the video tutorial to this project.
BeHappy and have fun