To overcome this grey weather, I playes with colour and made an uplifting and reach hand and body cream.
The emulsifier is Polyaquol-2W and I've used rather heat stable oils such as camelina and coconut oil. The procedure is really easy and straight forward. I directly added the gum to the water phase before heating.
Watch this video in which I share a few methods of gum dispersion with you before proceeding.
Formulation:
Phase A |
|
Distilled or deionized water |
to 100,0% |
Panthenol |
1,0% |
Na PCA |
2,5% |
Natural chelator PA-3 |
0,1% |
Arginine |
0,2% |
Phase B |
|
Solagum AX |
0,5% |
Phase C |
|
Polyaquol-2W |
5,0% |
Brassica alcohol |
2,0% |
Coconut oil |
3,0% |
Plum butter |
1,0% |
Camelina oil |
12,0% |
Squalane |
3,0% |
Phase D |
|
Vegeluron |
3,0% |
Ronacare Renoumer |
1,0% |
Skin prebiotic |
1,0% |
Phase E |
|
Sea Buckthorn CO2 extract |
1,0% |
Carrot CO2 extract |
1,0% |
Raspberry CO2 extract |
1,0% |
Lemon zest oil |
0,5% |
Tocopherol |
0,5% |
Ylang-Ylang oil |
0,5% |
Phase F |
|
Euxaly K903 |
1,0% |
Procedure:
1- Blend all of phase A in a suitable container. Disperse the gum in phase A
2- Blend phase C in another container. Heat both phase A+B and C in a water bath at 70-75 oC.
3- After both phases have reached the temperature remove from bath and add the oil phase to the water phase while stirring the water phase.
4- Homogenize for a few minutes. Stir while cooling down
5- When the temperature reaches around 40 oC add phase D and stir completely.
6- Add Phase E after that and blend completely. Continue stirring till the homogeneous cream reaches room temperature.
7- Make a 10% dilution in distilled water and measure the pH before adding the preservative. I'm using Euxyl K903 here and since I know that it reduces the pH and have already added arginin in the water phase to increase the pH so that doesn't drop too low when I add the preservative. In my case, the pH was 7,01 and I could add the preservative.
8- Add the preservative and blend completely. Make another 10% dilution and measure the pH again. In our case, it was 5,25 and that is perfectly in range.
9- Take your micro kit and stability samples and fill in suitable containers.
BeHappy and have fun