We have recently added glyceryl dibehenate (which is a palm-free ingredient) to our assortment. I have been playing with this ingredient at least for the past nine months and decided to add it to our program. This is a diester of glycerine, totally natural and suitable for application in vegan formulations.
G2B is a kind of "oil gellant". It means it increases the viscosity of the oils and imparts texture as well as thermal stability to balms and butters. The magic about it is that you can simply blend it with any oil or ester oil and then create a creamy balm. No hassle about graininess or the balance between butters, oils and waxes. It makes balm making absolutely fail proof.
Just by changing the dosage, you can vary the richness, texture and hardness between a flowable oil-serum to mascara to brow-gel, lip balm or lip gloss and certainly unlimited various balms and butters.
I have introduced Glyceryl dibehenate in this video a couple of weeks ago and since you've asked for sample formulations, here we share a KISS formulation with you.
Just keep in mind:
1- G2B should be heated around 70-80 oC before you can blend it with your oils. It should be heated with a part of your butters or if you don't use any butter with heat resistant oils and then during the cool down you can add all those amazing heat-sensitive oils and plant extracts
2- The texture of the product changes within the first 24 hours. Make a very small batch at first and judge the texture/hardness only after 24-48 hours and then decide whether to increase or reduce the content of G2B in your product
3- What I personally love about this ingredient is the fact that it creates such a creamy texture that you can fill the balm in a tube. This is quite extraordinary for a balm and provides you with a unique way of filling and packaging.
Now let's dive to the formulation and procedure.
Ingredients:
Phase A |
|
Glyceryl dibehenate |
15,0% |
Babassu oil |
15,0% |
Poppy seed oil |
47,9% |
Olive squalane |
10,0% |
Phase B |
|
Tocopherol |
0,3% |
alpha-bisabolol |
0,2% |
Rosemary CO2 extract |
0,1% |
Watermelon seed oil |
10,0% |
Sea buckthorn CO2 extract |
1,0% |
Ginger oil |
0,1% |
Grapefruit oil |
0,4% |
Procedure:
1- Heat phase A in a water bath at around 70-80 oC. Stir occasionally during heating
2- When all of phase a is melted to a clear liquid stop heating, remove from the bath and start cooling down
3- As the balm starts solidifying add the ingredient of phase B one by one and stir well in between.
4- Continue cooling down. You can do this either at room or by putting the beaker in the fridge and stirring occasionally
5- The balm solodifies rather fast but the final viscosity and texture are fixed after at least 24 hours. Fill the product in a jar or a tube (in our case, we used both jars and tubes)
Watch this video for a short visual instruction.
Stay safe and BeHappy