There are only a few "natural" and non-quaternary cationic surfactants available on the market and we have two of them available by SkinChakra.
Emulsense HC is available since a few years and it is an amazing conditioner for both rinse-off and leave-on conditioners, for hair masks and even for conditioner bars. To top it and create another "green" & "natural" as well as palm-free cationic surfactant with improved performance, Aminosensyl HC was introduced about a couple of years ago. This cationic surfactant can be used for all the same purposes as Emulsense HC but it has two main advantages over it:
- it doesn't weight down the hair and that makes it a suitable conditioner for heavy and thick as well as fizzy and kinky hair
- it doesn't melt away as fast as Emulsense HC in conditioner bars (that compensates its higher price)
For this tutorial, I have made a simple but effective mask that infuses life and shine to dull and damaged hair. I kept the formulation as simple as possible and even didn't add any fanciful extracts and active ingredients and I suggest you start with a similar simple and basic formulation for the start and then gradually add your extracts and other active ingredients to the formulation.
I didn't use any ingredient to change the pH and the pH at the end was 4,29 which is perfectly OK for a hair mask/conditioner. if you want to achieve a higher pH, add some Arginin from the beginning to the water phase.
Formulation:
Phase A |
|
Distilled or deionized water |
to 100% |
Glycerine |
5,0% |
Panthenol |
1,0% |
Natural chelator PA-3 |
0,1% |
Phase B |
|
Aminosensyl HC |
10,0% |
Brassica alcohol |
5,0% |
Babassu oil |
8,0% |
Shea butter |
2,0% |
Lexfeel natural |
3,0% |
Phase C |
|
Spectrastat G2N |
1,0% |
Ylang-ylang oil |
1,0% |
Procedure:
1- Blend phase A and B in heat proof containers
2- Heat both phases in a water bath between 75-80 C
3- When both phases have reached the temperature slowly add phase B to A and homogenize
4- Cool down while stirring
5- After the conditioner has reached RT add the preservative and the essential oil
6- prepare a 10% dilution and measure the pH. In our case it was 4,29 and that is perfectly in range
7- Take your stability and micro kit samples and fill the rest in a suitable container
Watch this short video where we show you the texture of the mask.
Stay safe and BeHappy