Many moons ago we shared a blog post and video about incorporating hydrophilic ingredients in lipophilic carriers. With the hard and long winter this year, I decided to create a reach balm and add some hydrophilic active ingredients to that and voila, this is magic in its most extravagant form.
The formulation is excellent and effective even without the oat silk and rice starch but I have added then to impart a dry, powdery feel to the balm and to avoid any heavy, oily skin feel.
Formulation:
Phase A |
|
Shea butter |
20,0% |
Mango butter |
10,0% |
Plum butter |
15,0% |
Phase B |
|
Marula oil |
8,0% |
Watermelon seed oil |
3,6% |
Olive squalane |
3,0% |
Rosehip CO2 extract |
1,0% |
Goji berry CO2 extract |
1,0% |
Carrot CO2 extract |
1,0% |
Bakuchiol |
1,0% |
Liq vit C |
0,5% |
Natural tocopherols |
0,3% |
Phase C |
|
Pro Vit D |
0,1% |
Modified rice starch |
15,0% |
Oat silk |
5,0% |
Phase D |
|
Neocare P3R |
5,0% |
Pentylene glycol |
5,0% |
Vegeluron eco |
3,0% |
Cross-linked hyaluron |
2,0% |
Phase E |
|
Patchouli oil |
0,2% |
Ylang-ylang oil |
0,3% |
Procedure:
1- Blend phase A in a heatproof beaker and melt it in a water bath.
2- Blend phase B in another beaker
3- Add vitamin D to phase B and blend
4- Blend oat silk and rice starch and using a sifter, gradually add them to phase B. Stirr after each addition
5- Meanwhile phase A should be completely melted. Remove it from the water bath and sart cooling down
6- Add the oil phase (B)+ the powder phase to phase A and blend
7- When the temperature reaches <50 C add the essential oils
8- Blend phase D in a small beaker. It will remain transluscent/milky. Add this to the rest of the ingredients
9- Fill the blend in suitable containers and cool in the fridge for a couple of hours
Watch the video here
Stay safe and creative