Scrubs are one of my favourite personal care products and scrub bars are specially popular because:
1- they don't need any preservative
2- they don't need any plastic packaging
Today you can indulge yourself with a ridiculously easy but impressive formulation. You don't need any specific tools and instruments except for a heat proof beaker or vessel, a water bath and your favourite molds. Silicone molds are very easy to work with and that is what we use in this post.
I have blended our oil-to-milk emulsifier together with Saponin powder which is a natural and upcycled surfactant for a better rinsing and after-feel. The exfoliant is our volcanic sand but you can use any other oil-compatible exfoliant such as brazil nut exfoliant or cranberry exfoliant or even ground coffee.
As easy and simple as this formulation is, you need to consider a few points for success:
1- The process is easy but time consumin. The whole heating and cooling takes time. Do not try this formulation when you are in a hurry
2- Make small pieces that are consumed within one or two applications. The product is not preserved. I have a big chunk sitting in my shower that I use every now and then and it is still intact (not contaminated) after a few months but still you don't want to take any risks with an unpreserved product
3- You may need to lightly tweak the formulation to change the melting point depending on the season and ambient temperature
4- Wait for a medium to high trace before you pour the melt in the mold cavities. Volcanic sand is very heavy and if you pour the melt as it is still very fluid it will sediment at the bottom of the mold (which then becomes the top of the melt). That is still cute and works and if you prefer it this way then go for it but if you want a uniform scrub and uniform distribution of the exfoliant you have to wait for a trace.
Formulation:
Phase A |
|
Cocoa butter |
52,0% |
Shea butter |
5,6% |
Olive squalane |
4,0% |
Myrica fruit wax |
5,0% |
Berry wax |
1,0% |
Sunflower lecithin |
1,0% |
Phase B |
|
PG-4 oleate |
10,0% |
Tocopherol |
0,3% |
Rosemary CO2 extract |
0,1% |
Petitgrain oil |
1,0% |
Phase C |
|
Saponin powder |
10,0% |
Volcanic sand |
10,0% |
Procedure:
1- Blend phase A in a heat-proof beaker and heat between 65- 75 oC
2- When all ingredients are melted stop heating and remove the beaker from the bath
3- Add the PG-4 oleate and blend as you cool down
4- When the melt reaches a temperature around 50 oC add the tocopherol, rosemary extract and the essential oil
5- Gradually add the saponin powder and blend completely after each addition and before you add the next portion. It looks like a huge amount and may build some clumps at the beginning but don't worry it all will be OK
6- Add the volcanic sand. If you want a non-uniform look you can pour the blend into mold cavities before a heavy trace. If you want a uniform distribution of the exfoliant wait and stir as the blend cools down and reaches a thick trace and then pour into mold cavities
7- Put the molds in the fridge for at least a couple of hours
8- Remove the pieces from the cavities and wrap them in wax paper or store them in metal containers or pastry/chocolate boxes
Watch the video here
Stay safe and happy