A cream cleanser is the most affordable luxury for fall-winter months if not through the whole year and it is much easier to make than you can imagine.
There are two key components in making a smooth and stable cream cleanser and these are:
In today's tutorial we are making a medium viscosity cream cleanser with a fluffy skin feel and silky foam. This cream cleanser can pamper the skin from face to toe and can even be used for short hair.
The preservative we are using performs independent of the pH but we aim a pH between 4,9-5,3 to match the skin pH without sacrificing too much of the foam. Before the cream reaches its final consistency you have enough time to measure and adjust the pH. It will be easier to add the required amount of lactic acid together with the preservative to the hand warm cream.
The cleanser is preserved and I have kept a similar formulation in a jar in my own bath and dipped my wet finger in the jar regularly for about a year and except that the cleanser became very ugly at the end there was no contamination. However the best and safest way to fill and use this product is in a squeeze bottle or tube. The cream reaches its ultimum viscosity and cosnistency within 24 hours as it cools down and it is easier to fill it as it is still runny and has a low viscosity.
Ingredients:
Phase A |
|
Distilled or deionized water |
to 100,0% |
SCI noodles 80% |
15,0% |
Caprylyl/capryl glucoside |
10,0% |
Glycerin |
10,0% |
Phase B |
|
Myrica fruit wax |
4,0% |
Mango butter |
5,0% |
Cetyl alcohol |
5,0% |
Phase C |
|
Decyl glucoside |
5,0% |
NaPCA |
2,5% |
Na lactate |
2,0% |
Paprika oil |
1,5% |
Olive squalane |
3,0% |
Tocopherol |
0,3% |
Grapefruit oil |
1,0% |
Natural chelator PA-3 |
0,1% |
Phase D |
|
No-Kons PA20 |
1,0% |
Lactic acid 80,0% |
to adjust the pH |
Procedure:
1- Blend phase A and B separately in two heat proof containers.
2- Heat both beakers between 80-90 oC. The wax phase shall melt to a clear liquid and the water phase will become a thick paste
3- Remove both beakers from the water bath and blend phase A completely. You can use an overhead stirrer, a homogenizer, the unfortunate Kai Blendia or a similar hand stirrer.
4- Add the wax phase to the water phase and blend for a few seconds.
5- Start cooling down. Blend phase C in another beaker (we didn't show the PA-3 in the video)
6- When the cream reaches a temperature lower than 50 oC add phase C and continue stirring and cooling.
7- Add the lactic acid and the preservative (you can do this at any temperature lower than 50 oC).
8- When the cream reaches room temperature make a 10% dilution and measure the pH. We used 0,4% lactic acid and our pH was just around 5,0 and that is perfectly in range
9- You can continue cooling down or can fill in tubes before the cream settles to the final viscosity
10- Take the micro kit and stability samples
Watch the video here
Stay creative and safe