Bakuchiol-hyaluron around the eye cream

Today we have a non-KISS formulation for you. It is non-KISS in terms of the number of ingredients which is way more than I usually use in tutorials but the procedure is quite as easy as a KISS formulation.

With decreasing the temperature, the central heating running and the cold and dry weather outside we need slightly more than a KISS formulation to pamper our skin.

You can use this emulsion over the whole facial skin but we designed it specifically for around the eye area and hence used very mild and skin friendly essential oils at a very low concentration.

It would be better to fill this cream in an airless jar but since we wanted to show you the colour and the texture filled the cream in a concentional open-mouthed jar.

We are using an anionic emulsifier here with a very nice skin feel. Since this emulsifier creates medium viscosity emulsions and since we are using a polar ester-oil which reduces the viscosity, we are using 1% cetyl alcohol to increase the viscosity slightly. You may ask:

why the hell shall we use a polar oil that reduces the viscosity and then use the cetyl alcohol to increase it?

The answer is: polar oils have an extremely nice skin feel and improve the oxidation stability of the product. If you don't have any polar oils at hand then just replace the ester-oil with a conventional plant oil with a low iodine value.

Formulation

Procedure:

1- Blend phase A and C in separate heat-proof beakers

2- Disperse and hydrate the gum blend (phase B) in phase A @RT

3- Heat phase A+B and C in a water bath between 80-85 C

4- Emulsify the oil phase in the water phase

5- Start cooling down while stirring

6- When the temperature reaches under 35 C add the sensitive phases (Phase D and E)

7- When the emulsion reaches the room temperature prepare a 10% dilution and measure the pH. In our case it was 6,54. That is OK for adding the preservative because the preservative system we are working with works independent of the pH but we will reduce the pH to a skin friendly range

8- Reduce the pH by adding lactic acid. If you are making this formulation for the first time add the lactic acid gradually and measure the pH in between.

9- Prepare another dilution of the emulsion and measure the pH. In our case it was 5,30. We are aiming for a pH between 4,9-5,5.

10- Add the essential oils and the preservative

11- Take the stability and microkit samples and fill the rest in a suitable container

You can watch the video here

Stay safe and creative