Donnerstag, 16. Dezember 2021
All the Xmas scents hydrating cream
This was supposed to be a video tutorial but these last weeks were so crazy we didn't manage to shoot any videos but since the outcome is amazing we couldn't resist sharing the formulation with you.
Each year around this time I create a couple of products with christmassy scents (which actually are not christmassy at all in the middle eastern culture I have grown up in).
This hydrating cream is a simple blend of polar and unpolar oils to create a stable, rich cream with a fluffy and whipped-butter like texture and excellent absorption. The procedure is quite straightforward.
Ingredients:
| Phase A | |
| Deionized or distilled water | to 100,0% |
| Aquaxyl | 3,0% |
| Natural chelator PA-3 | 0,1% |
| Phase B | |
| Solagum AX | 0,3% |
| Tara gum | 0,1% |
| Phase C | |
| Polyaquol 2W | 5,0% |
| Triheptanoin | 5,0% |
| Bacuri butter | 3,0% |
| Olive squalane | 3,0% |
| Moringa oil | 9,0% |
| Tocopherol | 0,3% |
| Phase D | |
| D-Panthenol | 1,0% |
| NaPCA | 2,5% |
| Phase E | |
| Cinnamon CO2 extract | 0,1% |
| Cardamom CO2 extract | 0,2% |
| Clove bud oil | 0,1% |
| Sweet orange oil | 0,5% |
| No-Kons PA20 | 1,0% |
| Lactic acid | to adjust the pH |
Procedure:
1- Blend phase A and C in heatproof beakers
2- Disperse and hydrate the gum in the water phase @RT
3- Heat phase A+B and C in a water bath between 82-85 C
4- Stop heating, add the oil phase to the water phase and homogenize for a few minutes
5- Start cooling down while stirring
6- When the temperature reacher under 50 C add the panthenol and NaPCA
7- When the temperature reaches under 35 C add the CO2 extracts, the essential oil and the preservative
8- Prepare a 10% dilution of the preservative and measure the pH. In our case it was 6,26.
9- Reduce the pH between 4,9-5,3 by adding lactic acid
10- Take stability and micro kit samples and fill the rest in suitable jars.
Stay safe and creative
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