Freitag, 22. November 2013
Tutorial: Shower butter
Here I am, finally with the promised tutorial for shower butter. As you see in the picture, the butter is a hybrid of soap and butter. With a butter-like consistency which of course depends on the temperature. I have added "red wine soap noodles" to the butter formulation for cleansing. However, keep in mind that the product is more a butter than a soap. It has a very light foam (fat reduces foam) but good cleansing effect. The most significant characteristics of the product is its emolliency and skin care. Even the driest skin does not need any cream or emulsion after taking shower. The butter shouldn't be kept in the fridge, but direct heat and temperatures over 30 degreed centigrade should be avoided. Of course you can not wash yourself with a piece of fat, the greasiness after you apply water over fat is intolerable, this is why I've applied two emulsifiers to:
1- Improve the skin feel and facilitate rinsing
2- Decrease fat residues in the shower area and the cubicle.
Here we go with the instruction, the procedure is easier as you imagine. You may apply any other soap noodles or soap chips. I applies "red wine" soap noodles for the beautiful colour contrast between the butter and the soap, for its mildness and magnificent characteristics.
You can apply any soap mold, silicone molds are excellent but milky way molds or loaf molds work well as well. If you're working with flexible silicone molds, keep in mind that you need a rigid tray, frame or mat to carry the mold to the fridge without spilling the butter out of the mold. Some silicone baking molds are delivered with these frames, if yours does not have any frame, then have a suitable tray available.
Before we start I want to recommend you to read our older posts about general information regarding hygienic manufacturing practice in cosmetic lab, introduction to Basic equipments and utensils for a cosmetic lab.
I've written this tutorial for 500 gr. It means, you need about 10* 50 gr cavities. Butter has a lower density that soap or water so please have a couple of molds available in case you have a surplus of butter. Latest after the second batch, you can figure out your molds and your required quantity of butter.
For this project (500 gr shower butter) you'll need:
54,5% Cocoa butter (272,5 gr)
7,0% Shea butter (35,0 gr)
25,0% "red wine" soap chips (125,0 gr)
10,0% Lysolecithin (50,0 gr)
this is both an emollient and an emulsifier for a non-greasy skin feel after rinsing
1,0% Calendula extract or maceration in sunflower oil (5,0 gr)
0,5% alpha-Tocopherol (2,5 gr)
1,5% Grapefruit essential oil (7,5 gr)
0,5% Vanilla fragrance oil (2,5 gr)
you'll need as well
a water bath to melt the butters
a suitable beaker or a pyrex jar
(optional) small glass beakers to premix and add other ingredients
(optional) a glass rod, spatula or any other suitable spoon or spatula to mix the ingredients
disposable pipettes
suitable molds (silicone molds are the best)
Enough space in the fridge (this is the most important part)
Instruction:
One: In a suitable glass beaker or jar, weight cocoa butter and shea butter. Put the beaker in a water bath. Keep the water temperature under 60 degrees centigrade.
Two: After the butters are melted add the emulsifier (lysolecithin), tocopherol and calendula extract to the mixture and stir while the mixture cools down.
Three: After the mixture has reached a temperature of 45, add the essential oil (grapefruit) and the fragrance oil (vanilla) and stir further.
Four: Pour a very thin layer of butter at the top of each cavity, it shouldn't cover the whole bottom of the cavity, you can even skip this step and distribute the soap noodles in the cavities. Only take care not to pack the soap very compact. Melted butter should be allowed to flow through soap.
After you've distributed soap in the cavities pour the butter and immediately transfer the mold in to the fridge. Depending on the mold size, you need about half and hour to one hour for small to medium sized molds. If the ambient temperature is higher that 25 degrees centigrade, then wait longer for the butter to solidify.
Five: Press the butter out of cavities. We wrap the butter in cello. This is the most suitable way to protect the fat. Even if you desire to have a decorative box or purse or something like that, keep in mind that this product is more a butter than a soap. Wrap the butter in wax paper before putting it in any box.
Enjoy the luxurious feel and the warming and uplifting fragrance.
You can buy all the ingredients for this project in SkinChakra® Online Shop.
BeHappy and have fun.
Swettis Beauty Blog am : Avocado shower butter-on-the-rope tutorial