Donnerstag, 3. September 2015
Shower butter a marriage between soap and butter
I'm obsessed with shower butter. This is an amazing skin cleansing product for cold and dry winter days when the skin badly needs more fat. Last year I've published some tutorials for making these fun and awesome products. They were originally made with an olive oil emulsifier, which is unfortunately a PEG-derivative and a no go in natural cosmetics. Because of this, I've replaced the PEG-based emulsifier with lysolecithin which is a natural and globally accepted cosmetic ingredient. This is a modified and hydrophilic lecithin with all the benefits of lecithin.
This is the link to a shower butter I prepared last year with avocado soap.
You can practically take any soap, embede it in a butter mantle and voila, you have a shower butter. The advantage of this product is (if your soap is already cured):
You have no mess in the lab compared with soap making, you can even make this project with kids or arrange a fast workshop with your customers and clients where they can immediately take and apply the product (what you can not do with natural soap).
You can create unlimited varieties with just one recipe by pouring the melted butter into different molds.
You can apply those favorite essential oils and fragrance oils that usually are not stable in a soap.
You can apply those soaps that are not quite attractive in appearance (that happens often to soap makers). It is an amazing way of reusing those ugly soaps.
A tutorial of mine is just published in the Sep-Oct edition of Saponifier and I have made another version of the original shower butter and replaced the PEG-emulsifier with a natural emulsifier.
Before we start I want to recommend you to read our older posts about general information regarding hygienic manufacturing practice in cosmetic lab, introduction to Basic equipments and utensils for a cosmetic lab.
Just one point: Glyceryl caprylate is a natural emulsifier and solubilizer but has shown some stinging by running into eyes. Do not apply this shower butter to your face if you have sensitive eyes and do not apply this on children's face.
For 500 gr shower butter you'll need:
60,0% Cocoa butter (300,0 gr)
5,0% Shea butter (25,0 gr)
25,0% of any soap chips of your choice(125,0 gr)
For this project I've applied red wine soap chips
8,5% Lysolecithin (42,5,0 gr)
this is both an emollient and an emulsifier for a non-greasy skin feel after rinsing
0,5% alpha-Tocopherol (2,5 gr)
0,5% Lime essential oil (2,5 gr)
0,5% Cedarwood essential oil (2,5 gr)
Here we go:
1-In a glass beaker melt Cocoa butter and Shea butter.
Add lysolecithin to the melted
(put the glass beaker in a water bath or a double boiler, do not heat the butters directly)
2-As the butters are melting, pour your soap chips in a suitable form. You can use any soap mold. We've applied silicone molds.
3- After the butters are melted stop heating and add tocopherol. Stir gently as the butters cool. Try to avoid any air bubbles.
4- As the temperature reaches 35-40 oC add the essential oils.
5- Pour gently (avoiding air bubbles) into the mold cavities.
6- Stir very gently to completely blend the soap and the melted butters.
7- Bring into fridge. Let it (depending on the cavities) from 5 hours to overnight and then demold the butter pieces.
Enjoy the skin feel and the scent of these amazing pieces or make a nice gift. Keep in mind that these are butters and melt at high temperature. You don't need to store them in a fridge but avoid direct heat and sunlight during storage.
You can purchase your ingredients by SkinChakra online shop.
BeHappy and have fun