Light-feel day cream with organic macadamia & hemp seed oil

Today's tutorial is a rich (but non-greasy) facial moisturizer which is perfect as a primer before you apply your mineral make-up.

Despite the high oil phase concentration (>25,0%) it has a very light skin feel and  doesn't feel sticky or greasy even during these hot summer days.

And guess what? The emulsifier is a palm-free emulsifier for those of you who are searching for a natural, green and vegan palm-free emulsifier.

I've shared a complete "How-to" about Dermofeel GSC palm oil free a couple of months ago:

How to work with Dermofeel GSC Palm oil free

and you can go back and read that post before you proceed with this tutorial.

Dermofeel GSC palm oil free is an easy to work hot process emulsifier. It works for a broad oil phase range and even at high oil phase concentrations doesn't feel sticky or greasy. It has absolutely no soapiness on skin and you don't need to rub it for minutes to get rid of the soapy effect.

Usually Dermofeel GSC palm oil free creates emulsions with a medium range viscosity but you can increase the viscosity by adding a wax (such as Myrica fruit wax or rice bran wax) to the oil phase.

For this facial emulsion, I chose to remain in the medium viscosity range. The emulsion is easily pourable and applicable from a bottle with an emulsion pump. If you prefer a higher viscosity, increase the wax concentration to 6%.

Dermofeel GSC palm oil free is a hot process emulsifier. Meaning your oil and water phase should be heated to 65-75 ^oC and then the oil phase should be added to the water phase under stirring. You can keep a small portion of oil and water phase with heat sensitive ingredients to be added cold during the cool-down phase after the emulsion has been formed.

I usually don't use hydrosols in a hot process but since I know most of you love to replace your water with  hydrosols, I used organic geranium hydrosol in this formulation.

To avoid degradation of the hydrosol, I first heated the oil phase and after the wax and emulsifier were melted, I put the water phase in the hot water bath just for a short time (2-3 minutes) and then proceeded with the emulsification.

Formulation

Procedure:

1- Heat phase B in a water bath at 65-75 ^oC.

2- When phase B is completely melted  put phase A for a few minutes (2-3 minutes) in the same water bath.

3- Remove both phases from the heat and slowly add the oil phase to the water phase while stirring the water phase

4- Homogenize the emulsion for a few minutes

5- Start stirring the emulsion. I usually don't need any ice bath and let the emulsion slowly cool down while stirring. This works for small batches. If you scale up, you may need to use an ice or water bath (circulation) to cool down the emulsion.

6- At about 50 ^oC add phase D and phase C one after another and continue stirring

7- Now add phase E. Homogenize again for a few minutes and continue stirring

8- As the emulsion reaches around 30 ^oC add the essential oils.

9- We know by experience that our preservative Versatil TBG reduces the pH. We've added a few drops of 25% NaOH solution to increase the pH to around 6 and then added the preservative. If you are working with another preservative, first measure the pH of a 10% solution. Adjust the pH according to preservative, add the preservative and measure and adjust the pH again.

10- Our final pH is 5,33 which is perfectly in our range (5,0-5,5)

11- Take your stability and microkit samples and fill the rest in a suitable container

The viscosity of this emulsion is perfect for an airless or emulsion pump but you can fill it in a jar as well. Using the emulsion from an airless or emulsion pump has the advantage that your fingers (or your customers') do not come into contact with the emulsion.

If you're inspired by this tutorial feel free to send us your photos and comment either per mail or to our Facebook page. If you post any photos on Instagram, don't forget to tag @SkinChakra.

BeHappy and have fun