A couple of weeks ago we shared a recipe for a minimalist cationic hair conditioner. Today we're going to share the recipe for a nourishing, non-cationic hair conditioner. We call this a hair nectar because:
1- it is loaded with ingredients that improve the texture of the hair
2- You can use it as a leave-on conditioner or a nourishing mask
This is only a basic recommendation. Feel free to add your desired and favourite ingredients (just consider the compatibility of the ingredients). If you want to use it as a hair mask or rinse-off conditioner you can increase the content of the oil phase but I wouldn't increase the oil content for a leave-on product. Just play with the ingredients to create your own version of this gorgeous conditioner/nectar.
Formulation:
Phase A |
|
Freshly boiled deionized water |
to 100,0% |
Sodium PCA |
2,0% |
Sodium lactate |
1,0% |
Aloe leaf juice powder |
1,0% |
Natural chelator PA-3 |
0,1% |
Sodium citrate |
0,5% |
Solagum AX |
0,3% |
Phase B |
|
Myrica fruit wax |
3,0% |
Dermofeel GSC palm free |
3,0% |
Lexfeel natural |
2,0% |
PCA glyceryl oleate |
1,0% |
Isoamyl laurate |
1,0% |
Natural vit E |
0,5% |
Phase C |
|
Amaranth CO2 extract |
1,0% |
Walnut oil |
1,0% |
Carrot CO2 extract |
0,5% |
Antimicrobial blend |
0,1% |
Rosemary CO2 extract |
0,1% |
Phase D |
|
Elderflower hydroglyceric extract |
2,0% |
Natural betaine |
1,0% |
Phase E |
|
Versatil TBG |
1,0% |
Lactic acid 80,0% |
to adjust the pH |
Ylang-ylang essential oil |
0,7% |
Geranium rose essential oil |
0,3% |
Procedure:
1- Disperse solagum AX in phase A at room temperature. An overhead stirrer is very helpful but not necessary.
2- Weight phase B in another beaker (heat proof)
3- After the gum is dispersed heat phase A and B in a water bath at around 70-75 oC.
4- After both phases are uniform and the emulsifier and the wax in phase B are melted stop heating. Slowly add phase B to phase A while stirring.
5- Homogenize for a couple of minutes and start cooling while stirring.
6- As temperature reaches 35 oC add phase C and D and continue stirring.
7- As the emulsion cools down to room temperature prepare a 10% dilution and measure the pH. In our case it was about 6,5. At this pH you can add the preservative. This preservative reduces the pH.
8- After adding the preservative prepare another 10% dilution and measure the pH again. In our case it was 5,75 and we added 80% lactic acid to reduce the pH to 5,30.
9- Add the essential oils.
10. Take your stability and micro kit samples and fill the conditioner in a suitable container.
BeHappy and have fun