Ages ago I shared this lovely serum and I know nobody who soesn't love it. With the arrival of our new active ingredients I decided to tweak and improve the recipe a little bit and here we are.
I haven't uses any gum or viscosity modifier in this formulation. Vegeluron and the blend of hyaluron with different molecular weights creates enough viscosity for this serum and there is no need to apply any gum (one step less).
I decided to avoid any essential oils (and hence the solubilizer) and let the hydrosols contribute to the scent (another step less).
Since I'm adding nicotinamide to the serum (Vit B3) and it is pH-sensitive, I don't blend it with the rest of the powders and add it after pH adjustment. The rest of the formulation is quite easy and straightforward (except for dispersion of the powders in the hydrosols that could be a little bit time consuming depending on which instruments you use).
Ingredients:
Phase A |
|
Organic rose hydrosol |
to 100,0% |
Organic geranium hydrosol |
25,0% |
Organic calendula hydrosol |
20,0% |
Natural chelator PA-3 |
0,1% |
Sodium lactate |
2,0% |
Sodium PCA |
2,5% |
Vegeluron |
10,0% |
Algae extract |
1,0% |
Hydroglyceric extract of malva, bilberry and dandelion |
1,0% |
Hydroglyceric extract of ginkgo and gotu cola |
2,0% |
Phase B |
|
Aloe leaf extract powder |
1,0% |
Caffein powder |
1,0% |
Hyaluron high MW |
0,3% |
Hyaluron oligo |
0,2% |
Hyaluron low MW |
0,2% |
Skin prebiotic |
5,0% |
Allantoin |
0,1% |
Phase C |
|
Arginine |
to adjust the pH |
Nicotinamide |
1,0% |
Phase D |
|
Preservative 1388 eco |
3,0% |
Versatile BL |
0,5% |
Procedure:
1- Blend phase A in a beaker at room temperature
2- Blend phase B in a small beaker. Gradually and in small portions add the powders to phase A while stirring phase A. An overhead stirrer or a magnetic stirrer make your life quite easy but you can manage small batches (up to 100 gr) even with a spatula. Totally disperse each aliquote and break possible clumps before adding the next portion.
3- When all of phase B is incorporated, prepare a 10% dilution in distilled water and measure the pH. The pH should be between 5,5-6,5 as you add the nicotinamide. In our case the pH was 4,9 and we increased it with Arginine and then added the nicotinamide.
4- Add the preservatives. Make another 10% dilution in distilled water and measure the pH again. The final pH should be between 5,2-5,5. If the pH is lower than this range, use arginine to increase it and if the pH is higher use lactic acid to reduce it to the required range.
5- Take your stability and micro kit samples and fill the rest in a suitable container.
6- Enjoy the silky skin feel, the divine scent and the high performance of this serum every morning after you've used your toner.
BeHappy and have fun