A couple of weeks ago I published this KISS formulation with the newly arrived PolyAquol 2W. Although I'm a great fan of KISS formulations and recommend everyone to make KISS formulations when they are testing a new ingredient for the first time, I know that most of you desire to create more complicated formulation with some fanciful and some active ingredients.
Today, I'm sharing a non-KISS formulation we made a while ago with PolyAquol 2W and I'm in love with this product.
I shall probably mention that we originally filled this product in a bottle for the photo-shooting but the final viscosity of the emulsion (the emulsion reaches the final viscosity after about 24 hours) is more suitable for a jar than a bottle. If you recreate this formulation keep your product (covered) in the original container for about 24 hours and then decide whether a bottle or a jar would be the most suitable container.
Formulation:
| Phase A | |
| Freshly boiled distilled or demineralized water | to 100,0% |
| Glycerine | 3,0% |
| Plant based pentylene Glycol | 3,0% |
| Na lactate | 2,5% |
| NaPCA | 2,0% |
| Natural chelator PA-3 | 0,1% |
| Solagum AX | 0,3% |
| Phase B | |
| PolyAquol 2W | 5,0% |
| Green tea wax | 2,5% |
| Camelina oil | 5,0% |
| Moringa oil | 8,0% |
| Olive squalane | 3,0% |
| Cetyl alcohol | 1,0% |
| Natural tocopherols | 0,5% |
| Phase C | |
| Meadowsweet hydrosol | 10,0% |
| Vegeluron | 3,0% |
| Renoumer | 1,0% |
| Skin prebiotics | 2,0% |
| Aloe 200:1 powder | 1,0% |
| Phase D | |
| Raspberry CO2 extract | 1,0% |
| Rosehip oil | 1,0% |
| Black cumin CO2 extract | 1,0% |
| Strawberry oil | 2,0% |
| Avocado oil | 1,0% |
| Rosemary CO2 extract | 0,1% |
| Phase E | |
| Preservative 1388 eco | 3,0% |
| Versatile BL non GMO | 0,5% |
| Phase F | |
| Cardamon CO2 extract | 0,1% |
| Ginger oil | 0,1% |
| Frankincense oil | 0,1% |
| Mandarine green oil | 0,1% |
Before we start:
I have directly dispersed Solagum AX in the water phase before heating the water and oil phase. This is a very effective method when you are working with an overhead stirrer or have a buddy to help you when you are using a hand held stirrer such as Kai Blendia. If this is not the case, you may use the artisanal way of adding the gum which is:
blend the gum with the glycerine and pentylene glycol in a small beaker. Add this slowly and in small portions to the warm emulsion after homogenization.
Procedure:
1- Prepare phase A in one of the two methos:
a) blend all the ingredients except Solagum AX in a heat proof beaker and disperse the gum in the water by using an overhead mixer or a hand held mixer
b) blend glycerine, pentylene glycol and Solagum AX in a small beaker and blend all the rest of phase A in a larger heat proof beaker
2- Heat water and oil phase separately in a water bath at 80-85 oC.
3- When all of the oil phase is melted to a smooth liquid remove both beakers from the water bath and slowly add the oil phase to the water phase while stirring
4- Homogenize the emulsion for a short while
5- If you use method (b) for gum dispersion this is the time to add the gum
6- Continue stirring as the emulsion is cooling down
7- Prepare phase C and D in small beakers
8- As the emulsion reached around 40 oC add phase C and homogenize for a short while and then add phase D
9- Prepare a 10% dilution of the emulsion before adding the preservative. In our case it was 5,05 and we could add the preservative without any adjustment. Depending on the ingredients you use you may need to increase the pH before adding the preservative
10- Add the preservative, prepare another 10% dilution and remeasure the pH. In our case it was 5,35 which is perfectly in range. Depending on the ingredients you use you may need to increase or decrease the pH by adding a base or an acid to bring the pH into range
11- Add Phase F and blend well
12- Take your stability and micro kit samples. Cover the container for 24 hours and then fill the emulsion in a suitable container
BeHappy and have fun
