For cold and dry winter months I wanted to make a very rich body cream and a W/O cream so that the delivery of moisture to skin is prolonged. I used Neocare P3R and although I usually prefer a cold process, I used it in hot process since I used babassu oil and moringa oil (which are solid and semi-solid in winter).
The result is a medium viscosity lotion (not sprayable) with a silky but very rich skin feel. The perfect texture for dry and cold weather.
The procedure and formulation are rather straight forward. If you have not yet worked with Neocare P3R please go back to this blog post before proceeding with this formulation. I used Spectrastat G2-N as my preservative system so that I have more flexibility with the pH and although I usually don't use hydrosols in hot process, I indulged myself with the luxury of a hydrosol.
Formulation:
Phase A |
|
Lemon verbena hydrosol |
to 100,0% |
Panthenol |
1,0% |
Glycerin |
3,0% |
Magnesium chloride |
1,0% |
Arginin |
0,2% |
Phase B |
|
Neocare P3R |
4,0% |
Moringa oil |
10,0% |
Babassu oil |
5,0% |
Olive squalane |
3,0% |
Brassica alcohol |
2,0% |
Berry wax |
1,0% |
Ascorbyl palmitate |
0,3% |
Phase C |
|
Tocopherol |
0,5% |
Black cumin CO2 extract |
1,0% |
Rosemary CO2 extract |
0,1% |
Ylang-ylang oil |
1,0% |
Spectrastat G2N |
0,8% |
Procedure:
1- Blend each phase in a separate container.
2- Since this is a W/O emulsion we have to measure the pH of the water phase before blending the oil and water phase. Prepare a 10% dilution of the water phase and measure the pH. In our case it was 5,1 which is in our desired range (4,8-5,3).
3-Heat phase B in a water bath @ 80 oC. This is to incorporate the ascorbyl palmitate.
4-After AP has been dissolved in the oil phase reduce the heat to ca. 50 oC and heat the water phase as well in a water bath between 50-55 oC.
5- Slowly add the water phase to the oil phase in small portions and completely blend after each addition. You are still heating the oil and water phase.
6- After all of the water phase is added to the oil phase stop heating and continue stirring.
5- When the temperature reaches under 40 oC add phase C and continue stirring till the temperature reaches the RT.
6- Take your stability and micro kit samples and fill the rest in a suitable container.
BeHappy and have fun