Despite all the progress in "natural" and "organic" personal care market, there are still less than a handful "natural" cationic surfactants available and we are proud to retail two of them. During the last 4 years we have been working with and selling Emulsense HC which is an extraordinary conditioner. This ingredient has been used and loved by our customers (some are even hair stylists) from around the globe with different hair types.
Actually we thought nothing could top that but we stumbled upon Aminosensyl HC which can almost top Emulsense HC.
Since we have introduced Aminosensyl earlier this year many of you have asked about it advantages and disadvantages over emulsense HC.
Similarities:
The two of these ingredients are both palm-free, plant-derived, prepared according to the principles of green chemistry and both are non-quarternary
Differences:
to start with, Aminosensyl is more expensive than the Emulsense HC. Emulsense has a slight smoky note that some people do not like in the finished product. Apart from that, when it comes to dense and heavy hair, Emulsense HC adds some weight to hair whereas Aminosensyl does not add any weight to hair and still has the full performance of an ideal conditioner.
Repair and shine hair mask
Another advantage of the Aminosensyl over Emulsense is that it works much better in conditioner bars.
Long story short:
They both perform excellent in haor conditioner and hair mask for all types of hair
If you are formulating for very dense and heavy hair then Aminosensyl HC is superior
If you wanna make conditioner bars, Aminosensyl HC is superior
Today's formulation
For today's tutorial we are making a no-fuss, easy and KISS hair conditioner with Aminosensyl. The formulation is as simple as it could be but it still works excellent even for long and dense hair.
In the video and in the description, we have added panthenol from the very beginning to the water phase. I did it because I wanted to keep the formulation and the procedure as simple as possible. If you want to be exact and you want to make the best of your ingredients however, you shall not heat Panthenol above 70 oC. Since we heat the water and oil phase in this conditioner around 75-80 oC, it is better to post-add the panthenol during the cool down.
Now let's jump to the easy formulation and procedure
Formulation
Phase A |
|
Deionized or distilled water |
to 100,0% |
Glycerin |
5,0% |
Panthenol |
1,0% |
Natural chelator PA-3 |
0,1% |
L-Arginin |
0,2% |
Phase B |
|
Aminosensyl HC |
7,0% |
Macadamia oil |
8,0% |
Lexfeel natural |
2,0% |
Phase C |
|
Spectrastat G2 Natural |
1,0% |
Ginger oil |
0,2% |
Petitgrain oil |
0,8% |
Procedure:
1- Blend phase A and B separately in heat proof beakers
2- Heat both phases between 75-80 oC
3- When all of phase B is melted add phase B to A (off heat) and homogenize for a few minutes
4- Stir as the blend cools down (you can add the panthenol here and not at the very beginning)
5- When the mixture is cooled add phase C and blend
6- Prepare a 10% dilution in distilled or deionized water and measure the pH. In our case it was 4,87 which is in the range (we have added 0,2% ariginin at the beginning to the water phase)
7- Take your stability and micro kit samples and fill the rest in suitable containers
Watch the video .
Stay safe and creative